Finland - land of wintery activities

Finland is clearly the place that invented making the most of winter. There's skiing, sure, but there's also more other cold-weather feel-good activities than most Fins have had hot dinners. Becs Miles does the honourable thing and goes to check the place out for us

 

It’s clear from the view out of the plane’s window that Finland isn’t your typical alpine ski destination. The landscape looks incredibly flat, save for some white molehills poking out through the pockets of Siberian Spruce forests and snow-covered lakes, and there’s an endless expanse of snow stretching to the curve of the distant horizon and a sharp fresh clarity to the air.

This is Finnish Lapland, and I’m heading to Ruka, its most prominent ski resort and the latest addition to the Crystal Ski winter brochure. It’s 30 minutes’ drive from Kuusamo airport and 800km north of Helsinki, 80km south of the Arctic Circle and next to the Oulanka National Park, which borders Russia. Snow covers the ground for about 200 days of the year, and the average temperature is just 0ºC. While downhill skiing is certainly on the menu, there are cosy log cabins, crackling campfires and reindeer to see, and I’m keen to try out as many other activities that the area offers as possible.

 

The skiing and snowboarding

The slopes of Ruka run either side of the main hill with 20km of slopes and 300m of vertical through open and wooded terrain. There are some really gentle gradients on wide quiet slopes ideal for beginners, while more experienced riders will enjoy the rolling steeper reds and the challenging FIS World Cup slalom run down to the ski stadium where the ski jumps are. There is plenty to occupy freestylers, with two terrain parks and a superpipe. Plus, with plenty of wooded runs, there are natural obstacles to discover too.

 

Other activites

 

 

Husky sleigh rides

About a 15 minute drive from Ruka is Erä Susi’s husky farm, where about 200 husky dogs in spacious outdoor kennels yapped eagerly at our arrival.

While the chosen teams of dogs strained at their leashes in their eagerness to get going, we were given a brief explanation of what to expect.

In pairs, we each had a sled and team of six dogs.

While my passenger snuggled down among the furs, I followed the tracks of the lead sled across the field and into the woods – by leaning slightly on one side of the sled or the other it would turn the corners, and the dogs had plenty of energy to power us up some small inclines.

Other than the panting of the huskies, all was silent around us as we raced through the woods and meadows, but it was over all too quickly and we were back at the farm. The huskies, tongues hanging out but happy to have a good run, stuck their noses in the snow to cool down.

 

River rapid floating

In a dry suit with tight-fitting hood, mitts and snowboots, wade out to the centre of the Kiveskoski river, lie back and let the current gently sweep you downstream. The water may be just a little above freezing temperature but when you realise your suit doesn’t leak, it’s remarkably cosy and very very relaxing, as the forests on the banks drift by and the odd dipper bird swoops past.

 

Ice fishing

A very popular pastime for the Finnish, ice fishing is simple. With a 12in wide hand drill, you bore down through the metre layer of ice covering one of any of the 4000-plus lakes, then drop your bait and line and wait. With any luck trout, perch or pike will take a nibble.

 

Snowshoe hike

The beautiful peaceful Oulanka National Park has numerous trails running through it, and we set out on snowshoes alongside the Oulankajoki river. Rapids, waterfalls and secluded log cabins kept our attention, and we stopped for lunch at a picturesque spot beneath a swing bridge and rocky cascade.

 

Snowmobile safari and traditional sauna

Our convoy of snowmobiles set off into the wilderness, racing across open plains and winding through forests. After 20km we arrived on the shore of the frozen Petäjälampi lake.

There stood a traditional Finnish smoke house sauna, deliciously warm and welcoming, and 50 paces away, cut into the frozen lake, was a winter swimming hole. Though the thought was terrifying, the rewards were rejuvenating, and I did the sauna and dip three times before I was fully sated, just in time for a dinner of fire-smoked salmon served in a candle-lit hut built into the rock face.

 

For the children

Take a visit to Santa Claus’ house, and meet him, Mrs Claus and the elves as they get ready for Christmas. Known in Finland as Joulupukki, there are songs to be sung, stories to be told, and if you’re really lucky, you may even leave with a present.

 

 

The season runs from 13 December 2011 to 19 February 2012 and prices start from £445 per person for seven nights (based on six sharing a two bedroom apartment) in the four-star Ruka Suites, including flights and transfers. To book through Crystal, visit www.crystalski.co.uk or call 0871 231 2256.

 

Images courtesy of Becs Miles and Crystal